While not wishing to get this wistful reminiscence of a year of Eating Out off on bum note, it did strike me as I looked back over a 12 months of reviews that all the places that ended up at the bottom of the pile had one thing in common.
All were chains, which is far from a bad thing in itself, and while British Mexican-ish place Tortilla, sort-of-swanky bistro brand The Ivy and American member of the fried chicken industrial complex Popeyes all did have something to recommend them (a tasty quesadilla, brilliant service, a top-level chicken fillet sandwich) none did anything altogether that would ever encourage me to go near them again.
And that’s the difference. Whether it’s an established favourite or a new spot that is more than hype and social media buzz, the mark of somewhere good is that it draws you back.
And that’s what all the best places this year had in common.
So, enough of the negativity. It’s Christmas! (kind of). Let’s go back.
In the unlikely location of a furniture showroom in Boucher commercial estate in Belfast, Ciarán McLarnon has set up The Focacceria.
As the name suggests, bread is at the heart of the project that sprung from McLarnon’s Hundredth Monkey Bakery, with superb sandwiches made with schiacciata, a thinner Tuscan variant of focaccia, coming overflowing with carefully considered, expertly executed fillings.
Read more: The Focacceria is a brilliant bakery serving up some of the best chips I’ve ever tasted
Oh, and his chips have become the sort of social media sensation that is actually a real life sensation and would be at any time in any place. Possibly the best thing I ate all year. Definitely the best thing I ate that was bought in a furniture shop.
There was virtually no furniture in Manong’s on Belfast’s Cregagh Road, though that was fair enough for a takeaway that produces excellent examples of Filipino staples, from chicken liver powered lechon sauce to crackling pork belly to beef kare kare stew to avocado ice cream.
Read more: Fantastic Filipino food at Manong’s in east Belfast
They have since made use of the furniture in next door’s sister cafe Perla, which serves Filipino drinks and sweet snacks, to operate popular weekend buffets.
While Manong’s Belfast shopfront could hardly be more unprepossessing, looking into Mamo Patisserie in the city’s St George’s Market is like peering into a jewellery shop at Christmas time.
The pastries, tarts, macarons and everything else are stunningly beautiful and gorgeous to eat too.
Read more: You’ll find more than wee buns at Gemma Austin’s Mamo - you’ll find true joy
The brains behind Mamo, Gemma Austin, closed her equally fun and enchanting Belfast restaurant A Peculiar Tea this year, citing the spiralling cost of doing business in the city.
She found a new home for her combination of imagination and generosity at Era, which brought a destination venue to the previously forgettable food offering at the Hinch Distillery in Co Down.
Read more: Gemma Austin’s new Era serves up a meal to remember
‘Small’ plates weren’t so small at all, like brilliantly balanced pork and pineapple tacos, fat arancini and a downright remarkable curry chip inspired potato pavé.
This time of year prompts the specific combination of looking backwards and forwards at the same time, and there was a similar mixture of emotions with the news at the end of 2023 that Michael Deane, the godfather of Belfast’s fine dining scene, was shuttering his Michelin starred Eipic and pivoting to a more casual style at his Howard Street ‘mothership.’
The result was MrDeanes, a ‘bistro, bar and social’ that, while providing a more accessible offering did it with the same Deane quality and attention to detail.
Read more: mrDeanes another star offering from Michael Deane
Lengths of crisp whitebait with a thumping aioli, masterclass after masterclass of mash – whether as champ or infused with smoked salmon – and textbook chocolate delices and crème brûlées all showed an effortless ability to switch focus without losing sight of what matters.
Deane’s decision to close Eipic didn’t just spawn one new, excellent restaurant. It also led to the creation of the place that was top of my pops for 2024.
Actually, it was more of a recreation with Alex Greene, head chef at Eipic and Great British Menu heavyweight, and Bronagh McCormick, general manager of the Deanes Restaurant Group, leaving to take over the Bucks Head in Dundrum.
They turned the long-established pub on the Co Down coast into an outstanding spot that juggles comfort and wow factor and does it with warmth and deft.
Read more: It’s not just the chips that are special, it’s everything - Eating Out at The Bucks Head in Dundrum
You’re made to feel so at home in the exceptional looker of a restaurant or the dangerously comfy bar that the food almost feels secondary. But, of course it’s not, with Greene and his team equally adept at outrageous apple crumbles and chowders as caramel miso tarts and lamb with black garlic pureé.
Maybe the best part about looking back on meals as memorable as these is looking forward to returning.
Happy New Year.
