So good you’ll be thinking for reasons to drive between Belfast and Derry - Eating Out at Dawsons in Castledawson

Dawsons,

43 Main Street,

Castledawson,

Co Derry,

BT45 8AA

028 7946 8767

I spend a lot of time thinking about food. Not as much as I do eating it, but still. I think about lunch while I’m having breakfast. I think about dinner while I’m eating lunch. I think about savoury snacks while I’m eating sweet ones. And vice versa.

What can I say? It’s not something I’m proud of, but I’ve learned to accept it. My name is Dominic, and I’m greedy.

So it came as a shock when, the other Sunday, I realised that not only was I starving, but I also had no idea what or when I would be eating next.

It was mid-afternoon. My wife, daughter, and I were driving back to Derry from the mysterious east – Lisburn, to be exact – where we had spent our time at the Lagan Valley leisure complex, being carried serenely around the lazy river and hurling ourselves gracelessly down slides.

Open the door to property investment success with NI Property Academy’s membership service

Niall McKenna’s fennel & citrus salad and fennel & butterbean soup

We’d just gone through Antrim when the truth dawned on us that the obligatory post-swimming baths packet of crisps had not done the trick. We needed something substantially more substantial than a bag of Tayto.

There came the stirring of a distant memory. Wasn’t there somewhere in Castledawson? Dawsons, was it? Cue some frantic backseat Googling, a quick phone call and, Bob’s your uncle, we had a table booked.

Castledawson’s main street was deserted when we arrived, so we were able to park bang outside. We weren’t the only ones in the restaurant, though, and it filled up while we were there. The locals clearly know a good thing when there’s one on their doorstep.

And Dawsons is a very good thing indeed. It’s done out tastefully, all calm blues and warm browns, leather and wood. It feels spacious and light, with a balcony at the back overlooking a charming garden with a touch of the wild about it.

Dawsons is open only on Friday and Saturday evenings, and Sundays from lunchtime to 6.30pm. They do tasting menus, as well as the standard menu. We, naturally, got the Sunday menu which, in addition to the traditional roasts, includes some Friday and Saturday items. It’s not a long menu, and there didn’t appear to be a vegetarian option, but it was all we needed.

In fact, it was more than I needed, as I struggled to choose between the roast and the braised beef. Luckily, the beef was on the children’s menu, and my daughter chose it, so I ordered the roast, counting on her not finishing hers.

Fat chance. She devoured it. I did sneak a forkful, though, and I can’t say I blame her for wolfing it down. The meat was succulent and melting, sitting in a rich, deep sauce full of earthy mushrooms, sweet carrot and salty bacon.

As well as her own meal, my daughter made regular trips to my plate, scooping up spoonfuls of the creamy mash and flavourful gravy. I kept her away from the moist turkey and thick, salty ham, mind, and I wasn’t letting her near the crisp and soft roast potatoes or the beautifully caramelised parsnips and carrots. My wife’s cod was fantastic – easy flakes of subtle meat, crispy skin and a delicious, mussely sauce dotted with chunks of salmon.

As well as her own meal, my daughter made regular trips to my plate, scooping up spoonfuls of the creamy mash and flavourful gravy. I kept her away from the moist turkey and thick, salty ham, mind, and I wasn’t letting her near the crisp and soft roast potatoes

My only – very slight – criticism of the meal is of my dessert. My rice pudding was creamy and soft, with a lovely raspberry jelly and crunchy, candied nuts, but I could have done with it being a touch warmer.

Faultless sticky toffee pudding, mind, declared the best ever tasted by my wife, rather hurtfully, as it’s one of my specialities. She’s right, though. A wonderfully light sponge soaking in a gorgeous sauce. My daughter’s Eton mess was great, too: sweet, creamy, crunchy.

As I say, we didn’t have the slightest intention of coming here. We got lucky. This wasn’t just a necessary refuelling stop; this was a meal of the highest quality, served in a stylish restaurant by lovely people.

Now, I’m trying to think of reasons to go to Belfast – Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only, of course – just so we can stop off here on the way back.

The bill

Child’s cheesy garlic bread - £2.00

Roast turkey and ham - £17.95

Pan-fried cod - £17.95

Child’s braised beef - £7.50

Sticky toffee pudding - £6.00

Baked vanilla rice pudding - £6.00

Child’s Eton mess - £3.99

Coca-Cola x 2 - £7.00

Total: £68.39